Pallet Rack and Installation Secrets…

Knowing when to replace the roto-hammer bit is rather simple and yet not many people, even some installers, really known when or why it is necessary. 

Why do we want to replace the bit? Well, the answer is simple, “Productivity and Efficiency”.  The more productive and efficient we are installing pallet rack or other storage systems, the faster and more cost effective we are at the installation.

• When do we replace the bit?
• Replace the bit when the anchors seem to be restricted when installing (pounding) them into the concrete.  You will notice a definite difference installing anchors in a hole drilled with a new bit compared to an old bit.  The reason for the anchors to feel restricted is the sides of the bit are getting dull.
• Another reason to replace the bit is when it seems to be taking for ever to drill the holes compared to when you started with a new bit.  When the tip of the bit gets dull it takes longer to pound through the concrete.
• If your bit is wobbling or bent.  Typically this happens when excessive force is exhibited when drilling the holes.

 Things to recognize when anchoring pallet rack: (These could be factors when anchoring)

• is the delay in drilling the holes consistent from hole to hole?  You may be hitting rebar or conduit.
• are you drilling perpendicular to the ground?
• are you getting enough power to the roto-hammer?
• are you using the appropriate size roto-hammer for the size of holes you are drilling?

Remember; when anchoring pallet rack let the roto-hammer do the work.  Leaning or even standing on it will not help drill the hole any faster.

 Look for an upcoming post that will discuss a different ways of installing anchors when installing pallet rack…

Many people think that anchoring pallet rack is easy.  Well, it is.  You drill a whole, pound a wedge anchor in the whole and then tighten it, right?  Well, yes and no. 

That is the basics and pretty much common sense but there is more to it.  Like using the right tools, knowing when you need a new bit, how deep to drill, and  how much torque to apply to the anchors. These are just a few more things that you should know to help make sure that the pallet rack install is done in a cost effective manner. 

The right tools would include:

• the proper size roto-hammer  (too small a roto-hammer will be ineffective and will be susceptible to damage)
• depth gauge (when drilling the holes, you shouldn’t drill through the concrete floor)
• if holes are through concrete anchors could be susceptible to moisture
• under-slab electrical - conduit under the slab
• roto-hammer bits that are the proper diameter and length
• maul hammer
• ratchet with sockets
• torque wrench
• tape measure (use to square the rack)
• shop vac ( vacuum up the dust)

In the next post we will discuss:  “When you need a new bit.”

Laying out the floor or marking the floor in preparation for snapping the lines for the pallet rack install can sometimes be nerve-racking.  Many people think installing pallet rack is easy, right, “how tough can it be?”  Well, if the first step goes astray, head-aches will abound later.

Every one makes mistakes, even professional installers will make mistakes once in while.  Most mistakes come from miss-marking the floor, not accounting for columns, or finding out the actual building is smaller than what is on the blue print. Before you start marking the floor, do your homework:

• Have at least a 100′ tape measure (if not longer depending on the install)
• Make sure that you have the most current plan or blue print for the install.  Ask for both a fixture plan and tape plan or a print that has both fixture information and tape measurements.
• Measure the width and depth of building or install area and compare to what is called out on the blue print.  (If there are any discrepancies these should be dealt with now rather than later.)
• Measure columns, partitions, fixed equipment, doorways, etc…  and compare to the blue print.  (if there are any discrepancies these should be dealt with now rather than later.)
• Clear unrestricted paths (two paths in each direction) for laying out the tape measure
• Look for any floor hazards that might be dangerous for forklifts and/or sciissor-lifts (as construction may not be complete on the building)

All building discrepancies should be dealt with up front.  Have a clear plan on how to handle the discrepancies prior to the start of the install (no one likes to do things twice).

 After you have done your homework, layout your tape along the floor.  Try to mark the floor with at least two people.  I find it beneficial to have someone read the measurements off while another person is marking the floor.  By doing this it gives two sets of eyes and seems to expedite the floor layout process.  Always make sure that:

• the lead of the tape is secure at the starting point while measuring
• the tape is straight, not curved or avoiding obstacles
• the tape is on the floor, not going over obstacles
• the tape is parallel with the wall or boundaries of project.

More pallet rack installation tips in a future post.

Many companies and organizations across North America are searching for ways to cut capitol costs in their facilities.  One way they have been doing so is by purchasing used pallet rack to increase storage space or even to replace rack that has been damaged.  As many assume that they are saving money by purchasing used pallet rack, the long term costs could be astronomical. 

When new pallet rack is purchased and installed for the first time it is typically engineered for the particular seismic zone and load ratings that the facility requires for their storage needs.  With used pallet rack,  engineered history of the particular pallet rack is not usually known.  The used rack  could be a liability rather than an asset. 

 What you don’t see (inside the beams or frames) could make the used rack a liability.  If buying used pallet rack, care and due diligence must be taken to make a wise purchase.

Squaring pallet rack is often misunderstood. The whole process begins with measuring the placement of the rack. You might measure off the walls or other fixtures to find both the end line and the aisle line. In theory both lines should be square with each other, but in reality they are most likely not square. The reason is that when the building was built the construction process is moving at a steady pace and squaring walls are attempted but not to perfection. We have all seen wavy walls or out of square walls in our homes. Now magnify that in a building that is 300 feet by 300 feet. So reality hits and our lines are not necessarily square with each other.
Once you have built your starter bay, place the pallet rack bay on both the aisle line and the end line. Anchor both of the columns on the aisle line. Now square the rack by picking the same reference point on both front columns. Measure diagonal to another identical reference points on the back columns. If you had two tape measures, the tapes would cross each other and form a “X”. If both measurements match the rack is square. If they are not, they need to be adjusted by pushing the back pallet rack columns parallel with the aisle line. Re-measure for square. Once you have repeated the process and the rack is square, anchor the back columns.

Note that your back column may or may not be on the end line when square. This should not be a big concern since the building is not perfectly square.

Note also that when aligning the pallet rack on the aisle line you should line up the face of the column not the foot plate because the foot plates are not always exactly attached in the same place.

More pallet rack installation tips will follow in a future post.

Everyone has there own way of installing pallet rack but I am going to share something I learned not to long ago. Before I took part in this new style of installing pallet rack, I was skeptical. Before I would stand the rack on the chalk line put in the first beam level and move on to the next up right, once the run of rack was standing I would go back and install the remaining levels. After all the beam levels were installed, I would proceed to square and anchor the rack.

Now I have changed my method. I now start by building a starter bay complete, square, and anchor the starter bay before continuing the run. After the starter bay is complete, I proceed to the rest of the pallet rack run. Instead of throwing the lower level in I install the very top level with the use of a scissor lift. Snap in the beam into the starter bay. Pull the lift forward while someone raises the upright and slides into place. I then install the hanging beam into the new upright. From there we complete the run using the preceding steps. After the run is standing we install the lower levels and anchor the rack. That is it in a nut shell. More details and reasoning will be included in next post. Until then…

The PR Skate has designed and test a pallet rack accessory that will change the way pallet rack is relocated. Warehouses, distribution centers, big box retailers, and the material handling industry could save thousands of dollars in any remodel that pertains to pallet rack, conveyors, mezzanines, and/or other storage rack systems. Since storage space is an asset, and if one can create more space without increasing square footage, it makes sense to use a system that could potentially save 1/2 to 2/3rds of the time and labor cost.